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喜欢一个人背着个包,到一个地方旅行,快慢由自己,体会在自心,没有别人的先入为主,走点弯路也无所谓了。 一直想去黄山,黄山归来不看岳,抽个空,在暑假人多之前,6月成行。当来到都昌火车站时,正下大雨,黄山那边这几天也是大雨,动车上心里忐忑不安。下午两点到达黄山北,坐个公交到屯溪老街,老街的古建很有特色,主要卖些文房四宝及黄山点心,弯曲的石板路、蒙蒙细雨,让人忘记了时代,撑着破伞,却没有丁香一样的姑娘。出老街,沿新安江而行,几天的大雨,让新安江少了份秀丽,多了些雄浑。        坐车到汤口(黄山南大门),路上伴着一条小溪而行,溪水清澈,忽激流,忽缓潭,两岸成片成片的白菊。到汤口,民宿老板开车来接,车一路下山,到一个小村,小村宁静,风景美丽,有一个天湖漂流。 第二天一早,居然是大睛天,老板送我们去搭上黄山的车。我选择逆主流的方向,在慈云阁坐缆车上山。先看到人字瀑,可惜水流量不大。缆车到玉屏楼,向东折向迎客松,有许多古人题字于石壁,有到此一游之嫌疑。迎客松前,东望天都,西望莲花,今年天都峰关闭,折向西登莲花峰。莲花峰是黄山最高峰,路途险峻,右侧多为悬崖,手脚并用,终于登顶。真是幸运,看西海北海,有深厚的云海,蔚为大观,东望天都,北望光明顶,唯我莲花独尊。下百步云梯,又上一线天,登鳌鱼峰,西望天都、莲花二峰,脚踏鳌鱼,其意气洋洋者矣。中午到达光明顶,可惜古寺庙荡然无存,黄山风景虽美,人文景观却远不如庐山,是为遗憾!小憩,吃包方便面,两个桃子,坐在石头上,临深谷、迎微风,无酒而醉。   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                   下午,下山至飞来石、排云楼、排云亭,望西海大峡谷,奇峰峻挺,谷底深邃。折回西海北海,看猴子观海,此时已无云海,该称其为猴子观太平了。同路有许多外国友人,黄山真是全世界闻名了。北海这边有许多奇松,有团结松,大王松,孔雀开屏等等。下午四点到701发射台,入住白鹅宾馆。傍晚,西边深厚云层,飞雾漂荡,阴厉沉沉,夕照泡汤了。                    第三天早上4点半起床,宾馆外已有很多人等日出,气温很低,可怜我单衣,瑟瑟发抖。不久东方泛红,有簿云,正好形成朝霞,5点太阳钻出云层,洒下万道红光,临高看日出,万山脚下,日出喷薄,壮哉此景,是太阳与黄山合奏的交响乐。    9点,从白鹅岭步行下山,路上行人稀少,有种武松在景阳岗的感觉。虽路途较远,7.5公里,沿途景色不错,行一程,歇一站,半为休息,半为风景,悠哉游哉,黄山与我独处矣。11点到达云谷寺,问当地人,此寺早无遗迹,亦为憾事。              黄山开发较晚,地貌保持良好,风景绝佳,然普贤开山,寺庙林立,黄山画作,诸人文景观不存,是为暇疵。
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